1990-05 cars in all run groups must have multi-point roll bars with fore-aft bracing such as the popular Hard Dog or Boss Frog bars. The bar must also be tall enough so that the driver’s helmet is below a line drawn between the windshield frame and the top of the bar. Please contact us ahead of time to confirm if you’re not sure about the eligibility of your bar. Full cages are also welcome and encouraged.
2006-15 cars in groups A, B, C and D must meet the same multi-point roll bar requirement as above. The only bars on the market that are acceptable are the Blackbird Fabworx bars, AWR bars with removable rear braces (the “Quick Change”) or Petty bars, the Hard Dog Sport with a Petty bar or the removable dual height Hard Dog Transformer bar. The PRHT version of the Hard Dog Sport bar is not tall enough to be acceptable.
2016-19 cars in groups A, B, C and D must meet the same multi-point roll bar requirement as above. The Blackbird Fabworx and Hard Dog bars are accepted for the roadster. (Note: due to differences in design, the removable rear braces (“Quick Change”), and Petty bars mentioned above are not required on ND models). At the time of writing, there is no sufficient roll protection for the RF for these groups.
2006-19 cars in group E may use the factory bars behind the seats for protection. In this case, the power top must be closed for both PRHT and RF models.
If you have questions about your bar’s suitability, please contact us.
Sound limits are 103db.
All body parts and panels securely mounted to vehicle.
Mirrors in place and functional.
Doors, hood, trunk lid latches all functional.
Car numbers (IDENTIFYING NUMBER CHOSEN BY THE DRIVER DURING REGISTRATION PROCESS) must be at least 12 inches high, on both sides of the car and in a contrasting color to ease in car identification. We encourage an additional smaller number on the passenger side top of the windshield, or on the hood. The corner workers need the numbers in case there’s a problem, and it’s hard to read little tiny numbers when you’re at speed. (Also remember, if the photographer can’t read your numbers, you won’t get your awesome pictures).
Tires in good condition – no cracks in sidewalls, no screw/nails etc. – Ensure tires have sufficient wear remaining and have no damage. Appropriate track-specific tires strongly encouraged for your safety.
Tire pressures checked and correctly set for track driving.
Remove hubcaps and/or trim rings.
Wheels in good condition and free of cracks or fractures.
Lug nuts tight and torqued to vehicle specifications.
Wheels properly balanced.
Check that all suspension components are securely fastened to vehicle – sway bars, shocks, springs & spring perches, shock tower supports, etc. (Racing term: a “nut and bolt” prior to going to the track)
Suspension components in good repair and functioning properly.
No cracks or other visible damage to rotors or calipers.
At least 50% of brake pad material remaining.
Brake fluid reservoir full.
No signs of brake fluid leakage throughout the braking system.
Caliper bolts tightened to factory specs.
Rotors in good condition and not warped or cracked.
Brake pedal actuates properly when depressed and released.
Brakes don’t feel ‘spongy’ when actuated.
All brake lines in good repair and free of cracks, or other damage.
CV joint bolts properly tightened.
CV joints properly packed with recommended grease.
CV joint rubber boots in good condition and free of tears.
Vehicle properly aligned.
Power steering functioning properly.
No power steering leaks at rack or pump.
Power steering reservoir full.
Power steering belt in good condition and adjusted to proper tension.
Fuel tank in good repair – no leaks.
Gas cap present and properly installed.
Fuel pump operating properly.
Fuel filter clean.
Battery properly secured.
No loose or exposed wires.
Positive battery terminal covered.
System in good working condition and free of leaks, blown gaskets, and/or worn out or clogged mufflers/catalytic converters.
All exhaust system components properly supported with suitable hangers.
Radiator and heater core in good operating condition and free of leaks.
Cooling system topped off with recommended coolant.
Cooling fans properly functioning.
Inspect and replace belts as needed for: A/C compressor, alternator, power steering, water pump and supercharger (if applicable).
Ensure that all coolant hoses are in good functioning condition – upper and lower radiator hoses, heater hoses, etc.
Check fluid levels for: engine oil, engine coolant, brake master cylinder, clutch master cylinder, power steering, transmission, differential, etc.
Leaks are uncool. Do not bring them to the track. Leaking cars will be black-flagged and told to exit the track.
Factory style 3-point seat belts in good working condition.
Seats properly bolted to floor of vehicle.
Aftermarket competition seat belts and seats must be properly installed if used.
Properly mounted to steering shaft and/or steering wheel hub.
Rear view mirror properly mounted and usable.
Verify that clutch mechanism operates properly.
Clutch does not slip.
Verify that cameras, transponders, and other ‘In Car’ devices are securely mounted.
Remove all loose items in passenger and trunk compartments.
Place convertible tops in the down position and roll down all windows.
Power Retractable Hard Tops and Retractable Fastbacks must be in the up position if the car is equipped and is using factory roll protection.
Visually inspect the engine, check oil level as well as all fuel and water hose connections.
Tighten all hose clamps.
Check spark plugs and spark plug wires.
Check air filter.
Helmets must be Snell SA, SAH or M rated, 2010 or newer. We do strongly recommend a SA or SAH with a head and neck restraint, especially in the faster groups.
Helmets must also be free of cracks and other visible damage.
Compressed air bottles used in paddock must be stored properly and must have proper protective valve hoods.
Never work under your car in the paddock without jack stands!
No speeding in the paddock!